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Intermediate & Advanced
Intermediate & Advanced
Red Rock First Ascents Details
Length - 1 or more days
Cost - 1:1 $425; 2:1 $300
Max Ratio -
Capacity -
Location
Red Rock, NV
Prerequisites
See below. All climbers should be able to consistently follow 5.9.
Program Dates
Contact AAI - info@aai.cc

 

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Red Rock First Ascents
First Ascents

Red Rock Canyon is not a very old climbing area in the scheme of things. A small cadre of locals and a handful of visiting climbers have primarily been responsible for the areas development over the last thirty years.


A climber pulls through a roof on Mr. Z (5.7, III). This moderate six-pitch line was established in 2003. Photo by Jason Martin.

Some of the best climbs in the Conservation Area have been established over the last few years. The super-classic route, Birdland (5.7+, II+) was developed in 2001. Man's Best Friend, a stellar two-pitch bolted route, was put up in 2005. And the absolutely phenomenal route, Hotflash (5.8, IV), was established in 2007.

A number of shorter one-pitch routes have also been developed all over the Conservation Area. American Alpine Institute guides were responsible for developing sport and toproping areas like the Hamlet and the Existential Wall. Others have established walls like the Ironman Wall and the Back Forty.

There are two types of first ascents available in Red Rock. The first type is the shorter, bolted sport route. And the second type is the multi-pitch adventure line.

There are literally miles and miles of unclimbed rock in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Most of the routes at the peripheries of the canyons have been explored, but there is a tremendous amount of climbing available deeper in the Conservation Area. Institute guides scramble up and down the canyons regularly while doing popular routes and are always on the lookout for a really adventurous line. And while not every new route is guaranteed to become a classic, every new route is an adventure.

We cannot guarantee anything about first ascents. We don't know how long they'll be and we don't know how hard they'll be. We don't even know if we'll make it up the chosen line - but that's all part of the adventure.

The Naming of Routes

One of the great joys of a first ascent is the ability to name a route. This puts a personal stamp on the ascent.

There are some longstanding traditions when it comes to route names. The first and foremost tradition is to try to keep the name in line with other names on the wall. For example on the Hamlet wall, all of the names are from Shakespeare's play. On the Panty Wall, every route is named after underwear. And on the Rad Cliff, most of the routes have a Harry Potter Theme.

The trick to naming a route is to be creative, to keep in line with the names of adjacent routes and to comment on your experience on a new line. As a result, naming a route can be a complicated thing.

When you do a first ascent, you are part of a first ascent team. All members of the team have to agree on the name of the route before the name is accepted. Your guide will help you to understand the ethics of an area so that the name fits.

Remember, your name will be attached to the route in the next guidebook. If it is somehow outside the norm for a wall, the armchair climbers on the internet will go on the attack.

Post Trip Reporting

Once you have completed your trip and you have decided on a name with your guide, the guide will report the route to www.mountainproject.com and to the appropriate guidebook authors. We don't have any control over what guidebook authors choose to report, but we will do everything that we can to make sure that they have information on the route that you climbed.


AAI Guide Kevin Hogan on the First Ascent of Pricks and Ticks (5.9, II+). Photo by Dyan Padagas.

Prerequisites for Red Rock First Ascents

Due to the potentially serious nature of this first ascents trip, there are a number of things that potential climbers must agree to:

  • All climbers should be able to consistently follow 5.9.
  • Potential climbers must climb with the guide who will lead the first ascent trip prior to the climb. This could be on the same trip or on a previous trip.
  • Climbers should not plan to fly out the following morning. While it is highly unlikely that you will get stuck up high and have to have an unplanned bivy, the possibility is there. Climber should not fly out until the afternoon following an ascent.
  • Climbers on first ascent trips must agree to the terms of route naming previously spelled out.
  • First Ascent Trip Reports

    Check out a recent trip report for Pricks and Ticks (5.9):

  • American Alpine Institute Blog

  • Follow Up Programs
    Aid Climbing & Big Wall Techniques
    4 days Intermediate Index & Leavenworth, WA; Squamish, BC; Red Rock Canyon, NV July - August
    This four-day aid AAI climbing and big wall technique seminar is designed for competent leaders who wish to expand their horizons and their climbing ability by exploring advanced aid and free climbing skills.

     
    Joshua Tree, California
    1 Day and Up Beginner to Advanced Joshua Tree, CA October - May
    Joshua is a true winter playground for climbers of all levels. The area touts high quality rock with sharp edges, abundant cracks, and a very high friction factor. Come enjoy the sun with us while perfecting your technique!

     
    Learn to Lead - Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership
    4 days Intermediate & Advanced Leavenworth, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Squamish Year Round
    The objective of the Learn to Lead program is to introduce climbers to the techniques required for leading single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes, while advancing technical and movement skills.

     
    Red Rock Canyon - Las Vegas Rock Climbing
    1 Day and Up Beginner to Advanced Red Rock, NV (outside Las Vegas) September - May
    Red Rock Canyon is the perfect place to brush up on skills or just warm up in the desert sun while enjoying some excellent climbing.

     
    St. Elias Range Alpine Mountaineering and First Ascents
    14 Days Beginner & Intermediate St. Elias Range, AK May - August
    Beginners acquire skills to be a rope team leader on moderate glacial terrain and intermediate climbers review snow and ice techniques, protective systems, and crevasse rescue. All participants attempt first ascents at a beginner or intermediate level.

     


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